A long and tedious ride in the car, made a sudden stop, dodge, speed, dangerous overtaking often, motorcycles and cars continuously grazed. This is the stretch of road, mostly coastal, which separates from Kuta Gilimanuk, from where the ferry to Java and home of the tasty dish ayam betutu , in which chicken and banana leaves are combined in a delicious plot. It crosses one of the most fascinating areas of Bali, accompanied by vast paddy fields, lush green, terraced on the one hand, and glimpses of the ocean of poignant beauty on the other.
The big rusty barge, loaded with trucks and cars, in a short time through the strait has been, in centuries past, a real boundary between two worlds: Bali jealous guardian of a Hindu aristocratic culture, steeped in Java the new order quickly Muslim syncretic with the ancient indigenous animistic rites. Above, the sky, big cottony clouds seem to be the stage where the gods, who leave behind, they seem to observe.
Javanese The land is immediately shows different in many respects. The houses and many buildings are modeled, often, the traditional form of joglo , with the central part of the roof that rises to the pinnacle. Public buildings have architectural features simple and linear, lacking the coloring of the baroque Balinese tradition. Islam permeates it, even if it is not ostentatious, religious buildings, which are present everywhere in the thousands, and traditional costumes which are reduced to simple shorts and shirts, colored in muted tones. The kitchen, however, does not reserve big surprises, because there is often revived in Bali, as elsewhere in Indonesia, from Warung and vendors of all kinds, and is therefore familiar. Are common in these parts, the small "rice-field eel, or belut , fries and pass again into a thick sauce of spices.
The road runs along the district of Jember, and for a short distance through a huge crater strewn with some active volcanoes, the Ijen Plateau. When the long straight sliding along the southern slope of the plateau, narrow hairpin bends, here we deal with the slopes of Mount Raung, which exceeds 3000 meters, one of the volcanoes of the group. The inevitable delays, caused by heavy trucks, can capture the views with quiet coffee and cocoa plantations that line and invade the forest. They are often too small forest trees in the most steep and treacherous curves, it is not uncommon to find beggars who, at the edge of the road for a few dollars and make signs to passing drivers to help them prevent or reckless maneuvers. E 'of the economy seek to live even in the most unthinkable folds of society. By day, a hand shake with fatigue, night enriched by the feeble light of a torch.
The road over the pass, he rushes towards the plane and the air becomes hot and muggy again soon. The wide plain that is home to the district of Jember, covers a long strip about sixty and thirty wide, protected by ramparts dell'Argopuro and south by the ocean. Top enormous trees blend into the rainforest, a color that tends to blue. At the bottom of the fertile land is home to extensive cultivation of tobacco, interspersed with coffee, cocoa and rubber. Each village has at least one mosque in constant re-construction of the willing and faithful ask for money to the travelers passing through, shaking plastic bowls, colored flags, waving hands to the sound of an Arabic dirge, shot on street by huge megaphones at high volume.
Kalibaru, scattered village on the wooded slopes of the volcano, is a place of potters, which doth stands up to a bendidio, pans, frying pans, pots, pots, pans, pots, pans, egg cooker, toasters, kettles, wok-sized tables. Some exotic forms are mixed with ladles, skimmers, ladles, baskets to create a palette of grays, from aluminum to steel, gloss, matte, riveted hammered. The background music is a dull pounding rhythms and artisans who live and work in a back room that is already street.
The road, in Indonesia, has a frayed edge, a large mesh plot from which everything and everyone folds, is permeable, is a land of cross communication. Demarcation not be prevented from forming populated like the land it crosses, and the cars pass through it like a crowded river, dodging debris, plants now grown, small crowds and large chasms roam, people and animals brought by the current, often cross and stop anywhere, where c 'is needed, even in the midst, perhaps to deliver a package or an imam with a healthy respect.
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