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Smile a barber

white tile floor, covered with hair blacks. Young Balinese crowd the wooden benches of the barber to be substantially deprived of their raven hair thick and straight, neatly unkempt. Shaved and leave happy, thanking with a shy smile and leaving little cash, separate their contribution to the mat of hair lying on the ground, by way 'of sheep shearing. Under one of the benches is the plastic bag, already half full, which reflects the outcome of the fleece, and a sweep away. Without bare human hand, from the corners of the floor, a dirt that defies time.

The environment is little more than a cubicle on the open road, with two metal chairs that face two mirrors chipped. At the center of the wall on a simple shelf, within reach are the two electric shears and scissors a few. The destination is wrapped da un sudario blu scuro, di un poliestere lucido, che ha visto molte chiome prima di quest’ultima, scelto a caso tra quelli già usati e appesi ad un gancio. Il pettine a la forbice sono svogliatamente privati dai peli rimasti, con un pezzetto di gommapiuma celestina, che poi sarà usato per ripulire faccia e collo dai pelucchi ribelli.

 I due artisti si danno da fare, intenti, con abili colpi di pettine sdentato e piccole dosi di rasoio elettrico. Le mani, sempre sicure, agili quasi, ogni tanto esitano di fronte a capigliature forestiere, magari straordinariamente folte di riccioli anarchici. Solo allora il rasoio, abituato a zazzere ordinate e diritte,  come boschetti di bambù, hesitate entangled in her hair twisted like a jungle.

The only working fan moves hot air and thin tufts of hair from one side of the room, chasing a few lazy flies. Who's waiting in the form a clear boundary between the glare of the sun out there and the few spaces in the shade. Local newspapers are scattered in several tranches between the benches and the floor, shoot their headline "It's about the most famous collector of kris in Bali", "Inter faces Parma without Eto'o." A radio plays melodic songs, interrupted only by news of the exchange rate of the rupee. The road noise spreads its content, we on a side street in Seminyak. The atmosphere is quiet and relaxed but nervous glances in the warm air spreads s'appiccicano you and me. Few customers will throw in jokes to defuse the expectation of the razor, a must, cut with surgical precision the boundaries of hairdressing final. Without water, no sharpening, just on a skin softened by a brush stroke of a wet bar of soap and white, full of short Pelini blacks. Black and white. The Balinese dualism (good and evil?) Chasing me even within the antrum of the barber.

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In Bali we are surrounded by a smile, it is said that in Indonesia's enyum and sounds to us like a sign in the face. Asians are brought to smile, to paint their faces with the bared teeth that stand out decided on dark skin. But it is true, or is it always so?

After years of positive answers to this question certainly, the most assiduous attendance of doubt creeps in, builds and comes to distinguish crack certainties. That's quite a minefield of blunders, like bombs ready to explode under the feet of the observer careless, hasty in judging and maybe uncertain in direction for the reasoning.

begin coll'indossare a beautiful armor: I love every sincere smile that appears on the face of those around me, especially here in Bali. Relieves the tension test and that the alien is a bridge between two sincere and firm diversity. A full stop. In this exercise, the Balinese are masters of social, always ready to laugh in any situation, like a white hand extended to help communication. But ... After observing the faces that reflect, here as elsewhere, a desire to live, the anxiety of an uncertain and low wages, the rush of responsibilities that bind, that's the question arises by itself: it is always a sincere smile ? It 'still Suddenly it has become innate or native a form, a foil, an accessory who has learned to wear depending on the circumstances?

How do you explain the smile that flashes on the faces of passers-by after a car accident? And the waiter's face that makes you fall on him juicy dish a whole? And that's tailor who has miscalculated and get you an account of the double-agreed? And what about the woman running against traffic to get onto all of a sudden in front of you and forces you to brake and dodge dangerous? Maybe his smile, quickly worn, is sufficient to dilute your angry reaction? And 'their way innocent (or designed) to get perdonare ogni nefandezza ai danni del codice della strada? Oppure è un mezzo sufficientemente simpatico per far digerire allo straniero la totale assenza di un codice di leggi che proteggano l’incolumità altrui?

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Una lunga spiaggia bianca che guarda ad oriente. Venerdì mattina. Pochi stranieri diluiti tra sdraio e ombrelloni, allineati in un’unica fila, bianchi su bianco. Il sole già alto è pronto a scottare la pelle nuda. L’acqua è cristallina, poche alghe verde brillante disegnano il fondo granuloso. Al largo si scorge netta la striscia candida e schiumosa che le onde tracciano al limite della barriera corallina. Da qui a là, la laguna è una coperta smeraldina, appena mossa dal vento. Più a sud, dove la rena s’arresta di fronte agli alberi, si agitano pigre le canoe dei coltivatori di alghe.

Corpi pallidi, presto arrossati dal riverbero, distesi a leggere, chiacchierare. Un succo fresco di mango, un sarong offerto da una timida ambulante, un gruppetto di ragazze in divisa che pulisce la spiaggia. Alle spalle risuona secco il richiamo di un martin pescatore. Lo smeraldo liquido offre un breve refrigerio, ma galleggiare qui è una lunga, languida e setosa carezza. Tutto è lento, torpido, anche il libro è pesante tra le mani e resta inascoltato sul tavolino. The breathing rhythm with the surf, subtle and barely perceptible. The thought follows the curious movements of this voluptuous noon between the grains of sand.

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Day celebration. Great celebration for the people of Islam. E 'in memory of a sacrifice moved almost impossible to pronounce, a father able to sacrifice his son on the altar of an ideal. That sounds dangerously close to idol.

The first call to prayer is heard only in Hindu Bali. The ancient formula rebounds shy of the low houses, restaurants still empty hotels.

Whole families, elegant dresses, shaman of the few Muslim neighborhoods to the mosque for the prayer of 9. The women, sitting behind the scooter, they greet each having balance in one or two small children, protected from the sun with a batik scarf. Husbands, in shorts and zuccotto, driving, smoking and brief address to friends. On the streets mingle with other families, now Hindus, who go, always in motion, other ceremonies, sarong and white shirt boys, lace blouse and sarong colorful ladies.

In a neighborhood of the village of Tuban, a group of people has just begun the ritual sacrifice. Like every year, neighbors, relatives and friends get together and break down some livestock, purchased by wealthy members of the community and killed on the spot.

Pak Rahman invited me to attend what looks like a festive open-air butcher shop. There is a hole in the ground where hath been consumed in the bloodiest phase. After a little 'to take away land from the eyes of all the red product of slaughter and will seal in an underground womb. Each family, Rahman whispers, receives a bag with 4 ounces of meat mixture, a little more 'a few bones and offal. All the same amount which, when diluted in a juicy rich stew (called gule kambing), will be the hearty meal of celebration.

Now, under the blue tents, muscular young men busy themselves with axes and knives, meat resting on simple wooden planks. Women go through water, teh and rice cooked in banana leaf. The sight of the camera lights up the atmosphere and everyone wants to be taken. Some of 'em big pulpy touches. Others wield enormous skulls with horns. Screaming, shouting, hellomister . Prevails in the fold jolly precise packing parcels, despite the red materiality of bodies dismembered. The thought of the impending meal feeding la burla e lo sberleffo. Rahman mi indica il più scatenato, quello col cartello con scritto “capra n°1”, è il matto, sospira.

Il quartiere è un miscuglio di etnie da ogni parte dell’Indonesia, continua Rahman, e tutti gli abitanti, oggi, danno una mano, anche se appartengono a fedi diverse. L’imam, arrivato da poco, si avvicina per un saluto di benvenuto e si augura di vedermi alla moschea l’anno prossimo.

Tra queste casupole, al margine di un sentiero sconnesso, si respira forte il senso del sacrificio condiviso, declinato in una convivenza pacifica e solidale, condita con carne halal .

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sacrifice the national dish

Barack Obama child lived in a suburb of Jakarta, for four years. Years of games, school and street food. Little Barry SBAFO, like all his peers, bowls and cones Baksa satay. Indonesian flavors that are inevitably left in memory. At the recent official handover in Indonesia, he wanted to carve out a real moment of reunion to try asking the same spicy flavors that remind him of his childhood Sundanese. But the zeal of his attaché has been so popular that the menu, made with vermicelli in soup with tofu and meat balls and skewers of grilled meat, has been included nasi goreng (not required by the "Bapak Presiden).

sin of ignorance which immediately aroused a nice interlude between the culinary teaching nationalist commentators on social behavior. The fried rice, it is not the national dish of Indonesia, at least served for lunch or dinner.

The cook bibi Das, an expert in these matters, I revealed the strict rules of nasi goreng.

Firstly, it is strictly a dish served only for breakfast, lunch or dinner ever. It 'made of rice and meat (chicken or beef) advanced the night before, possibly supplemented with tomato, onion and chilli. In this version of the popular breakfast are often quite similar to many "poor", from different peoples of other nations. How many dishes are "rehearse" in the pan, or bubbling, or rifritte. The fried egg, then, is optional and nasi goreng, so enriched, it becomes istimewa special. Finally, never, never will kebabs, which are an addition made in the art to make it more attractive to tourists.

Conscious of having followed the rule, and he often filled his stomach at breakfast with a platter of rice rehearsed, I agree with a nod to the complicity of the Auntie explanations and I fighting over a bowl Baks smoking. It 's time for lunch, Mr. Presiden.
(inspiration: The Jakarta Post)
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Rangda and the Venus of tektekan

; A Kerambitan in the courtyard outside the palace of the raja, unfolds the story of the witch Rangda, that neither men nor animals can defeat God. General Re and with her brave face with cold, but leaving soon defeated. Her maids of hell, possessed by a malevolent beauty, are the faces of comely maidens of the village. In feminine charm, seem to tell under the veils of white witchcraft, spells and misfortune lurk harmful to the entire community.

The Barong, be semi-divine animal, who plays the good-natured, friendly man, he is defeated. The duel is played on aggression leaping, jumping cats, haunted cries, flapping jaws. Then, Rangda just a simple beating of her magic veil, agitated by a clawed hand, and lays it on the ground. Neither the nature, powerful and naive, can do nothing against the powerful evil that emits dark soul.

In defense of extreme Barong, the wounded nature materializes a group of shirtless men, armed with long sharp kris.

Here the scene is frantic and the screams of the witch grinning more acute and bold. Rangda openly challenge the gunmen, who hurled up trying to stab her. Although thrown back by the power of the attacks, the pure evil emerges intact, protected by millennia invulnerability. She does not pay, and leaps mocking, with ghastly cries and frantic gestures now.

The drum beats ("tek, tek tek") accompanies the climax of the crescendo until, unexpectedly, takes off his mask Rangda leaving her naked avatar in the middle of the scene, now only protected by the intensity of his own possession. Just a few more, desperate attacks and, to a sweeping gesture of the arm, throws the veil of all evil on the ground, exhausted in the pantomime of the deadly curse. Quick every man a priest sprinkles with holy water and awakens it by lifting the hair. A little more than another priest marks the end of the challenge with the necessary blood sacrifice, without which the evil spirit would continue to spread its evil claws on building and village. The Balinese sublimate so the inner struggle that they face every day with his dark side.

writhing on the ground ends of the slaughtered chicken and agony seems to cast its dark shadow of the Rangda, which fades over the high gates of the palace of Anyar.

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Penida (3)

white beach that is lost in the distant blue shadow of the great volcano. White hulls of long canoes leaning buildings to keep net dawn. Arose from the deep sea leviathans immaculate. Curved claws left by a giant demon. Spread the ribs of a skeleton of a dinosaur imagined.

The man raises the water, the heavy basket full of algae that glisten in the sun. The woman struggles to help with posarsela on the head, protected by just a rag. Exit this way, step by step, dripping with salt water and marine moods, his face glowing in the rising sun, a Venus in Penida. He moves carefully and safely, the weight does not remove a natural gait, the mesh sweep the wet breasts, crabs escape from his feet, his turgid green algae intertwined hair.

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Penida colors (2)

High cliffs overlooking the sea. A green meadow grass low, controlled by a few cows latte color. Limestone outcrop on the slopes and a wavy edge populated by low bushes looking for the gap. Grasshoppers spitting everywhere and flies in a messy plot where grazing cows did.

The gleaming limestone which is the backbone of the island offers new opportunities chromatic sacred architecture. The portals of the temples, a white blinding whiteness, sharp stand out among the green trees and gray of the surrounding walls. The ash uniform of the holy places from Bali, made of lava stone, declines efficiently with the constant switching between good and evil, black and white. Here, Penida, portals and pristine snowy elaborate altars, erected as soon as you grant rather bright. Over time and with the work of the neutral nature, changing in and then spotted a gray cast. And the transition takes place again, to fade recalling all of the conditions to the people the endless faces, twists and nuances that the malicious behavior weave pure soul with dazzling clarity. A shared knowledge that is perpetuated in stone.

The choice of figures that adorn every corner of the altar-squared indicates an original religious symbology. Body with winged griffins lion, swans meandering with spread wings, faces dominated by elephant trunks bent. Doodles and leaves and flowers. All embellished with limestone which emphasizes the full relief through an endless play of shadows. A chiaroscuro that is the watchword of this universe made alive by the scorching sun.

Everywhere you go, on Penida, it was accompanied by this dialogue between light and shadow, short strokes of darkness that limit, even spiritually, the overbearing extensions of positive light.

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Penida return (1)

Sanur, the black sand slowly begins to warm in the sunshine of 6 in the morning. Tripper giavanesi hanno viaggiato tutta la notte per assistere, sfiniti, al sorgere del sole. Ragazze scout, in maglietta bianca e pantaloni scuri, si bagnano in gruppo nelle acque ancora grigie, in una sorta di jamboree marino. Coppie di figli chiedono di far da fondale al loro ricordo fotografico. I bambini sono particolarmente attratti ed intimoriti dalla mole e dal pallore di questi stranieri, che sembrano buffe incarnazioni dei clown del teatro delle ombre. Un megafono raduna il gregge di vacanzieri che, andandosene, lasciano i pochi passeggeri della barca a guardarsi l’un l’altro, sorseggiando una tazza di caffè accompagnata da banane fritte.

Le barche che solcano questo tratto sea \u200b\u200bare painted in bright colors. Ours is blue with large red and yellow arched legs that support the long white rocker. We leave behind a coastline full of storm clouds, including the largest volcano plays hide and seek.

...

Clouds huge rise in white scrolls from the tropical sea. Scroll across the screen moves from the roll of the boat, visible from the opening in the hull that mimics the color of blue sky.

faces are serious about, eyes lowered or lost in the empty hold, you hear a word. Some sleep in an attempt to drive the necessary fear of the sea and the crossing. Even those who do so apart from the stomach, a few sounds, his forehead lowered, then left to cover, in a fit of shame your mouth.

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Cremation of last Raja Peliatan

In Bali, Ubud and the royal courts of Peliatan, including their related, are known for their elaborate and impressive ceremonies of cremation. One of the great collective of 1992 was the cremation of his wife, mother and Anak Agung Gede Agung stepmother, an Indonesian diplomat in the royal house of Gianyar.

On November 2, 2010 took place another exceptional event, the royal cremation ceremony for the Raja of Peliatan IX, Ida Dwagung Peliatan, who passed away last August 20 at the age of 71 years.

For weeks, a community of parents, artists and artisans from nearby villages has built a huge platform on which was laid a stunning high cremation tower 25.5 meters and consists of 11 overlapping roofs. The bade , built in bamboo, wood and paper, weighing several tonnes, has housed the remains of the Raja during travel and was taken in procession on the shoulders of hundreds of men, from Peliatan up in Ubud, on land reserved to actual cremation. To complete this marvel is the real sarcophagus in the shape of a bull that has hosted the remains of the Raja at the time of the funeral pyre, and the dragon of 3 meters, the naga band, resplendent with gold flakes, which is entrusted with the task of transporting the soul in the afterlife. Everything will be focused, because the Balinese believe that only through the purification by fire the soul can be released from this earth and go to heaven.

On the day of cremation, the body was first placed in the tower, inside a small alcove. A long white cloth attached to it, held by members the family, represents the bonds of kinship with the deceased. Then hundreds of men brought together the huge platform on their shoulders, moving, turning and stopping in unison, accompanied by the deafening sound of dozens of gongs of a gamelan . The platform is huge spun in a disorderly manner at each intersection in order to disorient the blood and prevent her return to earth and disturb the living. Participated in the procession, an event even more spectacular, two elephants guided by the principles of court Peliatan Ninda Tjokorda Putra, the heir to the throne, and Tjokorda Bagus Nawa.

At the cremation ground the body was removed from the tower and placed in the coffin, wrapped in luxurious fabrics, sprayed with holy water and accompanied by songs and prayers. Bids are placed beneath the funeral pyre in order to give effect to the fire and soon the sarcophagus and body are consumed by the flames. The tower was burned separately, the next day.

By participating in the preparations and rituals, the relatives to fulfill their religious duties towards the deceased. There is no manifestation of pain in public, because crying near the body disturbs the soul on its journey to the afterlife.

(Source: Bali Pos)
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Today you can lounge around an extra hour so we will separate up to 7 hours of time. Here the heat rises and I hope that today's men are Lella mount the 3rd fan, this time over the dining room table, where you eat in the evening (the other two we have in the living room, one on top of "my" desk, the other on the couch "GC").

is our workstations, as at Padua. But here we are facing each other, living in a long 10 metri. In veranda ne abbiamo invece uno che soffia fortissimo sopra il tavolino della colazione e del pranzo.

Continuo a curiosare e ad appropriarmi di cose vecchie di Lella che trovo nelle tante stanze di questo complesso dove, oltre alla nostra casa, ci sono 2 stabili di 3 piani ciascuno. E’ un vero divertimento perché si trovano cose balinesi più o meno vetuste, alcune talmente tarlate che si sbriciolano in mano lasciandoti solo le larve dei tarli che si contorcono. Altre, invece, talmente impolverate che sembrano uniformemente nere, ma quando le lavi è sempre una sorpresa perché pian piano riappaiono i colori.

Torno in stanza, dopo queste mie “incursioni”, black as a chimney sweep. Fortunately, I recovered a duffel bag, plastic zip, one that we use to put away blankets or duvets. Now I have got used to go with that and fill it with various objects, which often do not even understand the manual.

Once I start down slowly to clear everything with brush, sponge, brush. Sometimes, for large objects, call the workers of Lella that lead me down the furniture, wash them in the parking lot with the barrel of water and let the sun to dry. Almost all have teak furniture, valuable only for timber with which they are made, but here are treated worse than our mobile ant found in the marketplace. Often are released into the sixth with a touch of bite that will preserve them for at least part of their future here in our house.

We then filled the house with furniture and various objects that I am thoroughly

photographing. So far, the most curious objects were 3 shoes Madura (island in the north-east of Java) and a mobile bar-specimen of which dates from the early Dutch colonization of Indonesia, oval-shaped with a lid that acts as a tray. These days we have here a friend of ours host of Pavia, as well as clothing, furniture trades in importing from South-East Asia in Italy. I carry it with me one morning in the various rooms in search of the last things he confirmed that some pieces are very valuable and others told me the story. Skeins of colored leather cord found in a dusty box, I explained the high value in Italy because they are very beautiful, with bright colors and wanted to make necklaces with pendants. In the coming days I will bring down the box and calmly curioserò!! In Bali there are in fact type Murrina Venetian glass beads and pendants beautifully made with various materials.

spends his short life in a different way!

Good Sunday!

laura